Summertime is salad time

 

By now, most of us know that the Caesar salad was invented in a restaurant in Mexico, but how many know about the Columbia 1905 Salad that legend says a waiter developed in 1940s for the Columbia, a Spanish restaurant in Sarasota, Florida. The salad eventually became standard at the Columbia, and they used it to combat the popularity of the salad bars that sprang up everywhere. It’s called their 1905 Salad, and if I have my facts in order, that’s because one family owns or owned a group of restaurants they called the 1905 restaurants. This recipe makes a main salad for two or a side for four. You could substitute shrimp or turkey for the ham

For the salad:

4 cups iceberg lettuce, torn into small pieces

1 ripe tomato, diced

½ cup baked ham, julienned

½ cup Swiss cheese, julienned

½ cup green Spanish olives, sliced

 

Toss ingredients in a large bowl. When ready to serve, make dressing.

 

1 cup "1905" Dressing

 

For the dressing:

½ cup Spanish olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons dried oregano

⅛ cup white wine vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

 

Finally, add to the salad and toss: Serve immediately

 

¼ cup Romano cheese, grated

2 Tbsp. Worcestershire Sauce

Juice of 1 lemon

 

This makes a great, refreshing summer supper for two!

 

An old favorite – recycled

 

Tuna Florentine with crumb topping

It’s kind of hard to come up with new recipes when you’re on a soft diet, at least I find it hard. I am hoping my current disinterest in food is temporary, and I count it as a good sign that I am still collecting new recipes off the web and out of magazines. But today I want to share an old favorite. Before the world crashed in on me recently, I was expecting a good friend from the Houston area to come visit, and I planned to fix this for her. In retrospect, it’s a good thing that won’t happen, because my co-host for that little dinner doesn’t eat cooked greens, a fact that I, a confirmed spinach lover, conveniently forgot. But if you’re okay with spinach and with the bit of extra work required for this, it really is good. And it’s a nice, light dish for a summer evening.

Tuna Florentine

2 Tbsp. butter, divided use

1 small onion, minced

2 10-oz. pkgs. frozen chopped spinach

2 tsp. salt, divided use

½ tsp. ground nutmeg

2 7-oz. cans tuna, packed in oil

3 Tbsp. flour

Pinch of mace

½ tsp. white pepper

Spinach cooking liquid plus enough milk to make 1½ cups

1 c. grated Swiss cheese

2 Tbsp. Parmesan

2 Tbsp. white wine

Topping

1½ c. soft bread crumbs

1 Tbsp. grated Parmesan

2 Tbsp. melted butter

Melt 1 Tbsp. butter; add onion and sauté until brown. Separately, cook the two packages of frozen spinach in less water than the directions call for, breaking the frozen spinach up with a wooden spoon. When tender, drain thoroughly, reserving the liquid (spinach should be very dry). Add butter and onion to spinach. Season with 1 tsp. salt and nutmeg. Simmer briefly to blend flavors.

Add milk to spinach liquid to make 1½ cups.

Drain tuna, reserving 2 Tbsp. oil; flake.

Put 2 Tbsp. tuna oil and remaining Tbsp. butter in saucepan and melt butter. Blend in flour, mace, remaining salt, and pepper. Add spinach liquid/milk mixture and stir over heat until thick and smooth. Remove from heat and add cheeses and wine. Heat until smooth again, and fold in tuna.

Layer spinach in bottom of shallow casserole. Top with tuna mixture. Mix topping ingredients together and spread over tuna layer. Bake, uncovered, at 350° until bubbly and lightly browned (35-40 minutes).

For the spinach lovers among us: if you like this, next time you fix Eggs Benedict, makes them Eggs Florentine!

 

 

 

A taste of France

 

Apparently for the foreseeable future, I am to be on a soft diet—you know, lots of yogurt and applesauce and protein drinks. This strict limitation does not inspire my curiosity about new recipes nor my willingness to cook, so I may be hard put to come up with recipes for my Gourmet on a Hot Plate blog. But I don’t want to give it up. So for the next couple of months, I’m going to be recycling old recipes, stealing cooking hints and odd bits of knowledge from other sources, and doing what I can to keep all of us interested in the food we eat.

That said, it’s appropriate now for me to celebrate the forthcoming launch (late June) of the fifth in my Irene in Chicago Culinary Mysteries. Titled, Irene in a Ghost Kitchen, it has a fierce culinary rivalry, old family resentments and endangered children, and a stalker who’d love to get his hands on Irene. Chance and Henny combine to try to keep her safe despite herself.

But Irene in a Ghost Kitchen also has food—lots of French food, even a cooking school, and, of course, recipes. To whet your appetite for food in the French manner, I pulled a couple of recipes from an earlier Irene book, Irene in Danger. Both gougères and gibelotte are mentioned often in the new book.

 

Gougères

Gougères are small appetizers made of a rich dough called choux pastry and cheese, traditionally Comté, Emmentaler, or Gruyère. The ingredients are simple, but making the pastries involves a lot of beating by hand.

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

¾ tsp. salt, preferably kosher

Pinch of nutmeg

1 c. water

1-1/4 c. flour

4 eggs

1-1/2 c. Comté, Emmentaler, or Gruyère cheese, grated

½ tsp. fine black pepper

One egg yolk

          Combine the first four ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook, just below a boil, until butter is melted. Stir in the flour. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture forms a ball in the middle of the pan. Dough should not be sticky. Let it cool slightly, because you will be adding eggs but don’t want the dough to cook them before you can stir them in.

Remove pan from the heat and beat the eggs in one at a time, beating vigorously after each egg until it is thoroughly incorporated into the dough. Do not try to hurry the process by adding all four eggs at once. After the last egg, stir in cheese and pepper.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Irene shapes the dough into one-inch balls by hand, but Henny prefers to use a piping bag with the ½” round tip. You may also cut the corner off a plastic bag and use it as a home-made piping bag. Place dough balls 2” apart on baking sheet as they will expand.

Make an egg wash with remaining egg yolk and 1 tsp. water. Brush onto gougères before baking.

Bake at 400^o for 20-25 minutes. When done, they will be golden brown. You can test for doneness by breaking one open: it should be dry on the inside.

Recipe makes about 50 gougères, but people will eat several at a time.

 

Gibelotte

A gibelotte is a French stew of either fish or rabbit. For American tastes, you could substitute chicken, although Madame would dismiss it as unworthy. Veal, although expensive, would be another choice. This is a basic recipe; if you wish you may add sliced mushrooms, or baby carrots, or tiny new potatoes.

4 lbs. meat of your choice, in serving size pieces

Four strips bacon

2 Tbsp. flour

2 c. chicken broth, prepared or made from condensed base

2 c. dry white wine

1 bouquet garni*

2 Tbsp tomato paste

Salt and pepper to taste

¼ c. heavy cream

Toss the meat pieces in flour, salt, and pepper.

Fry the bacon until the grease is rendered (if you keep bacon fat in the refrigerator, as Irene does, you may use that). Remove bacon and brown meat in fat.

Add remaining ingredients except the cream. Simmer the gibelotte over low heat until meat is tender and thoroughly cooked, usually about an hour and a half. You may also bake it at 325^o.

Remove meat to a platter and tent to keep warm; remove bouquet garni from the sauce and strain the sauce. Add cream. Transfer to a saucepan and heat until slightly thickened. Pour sauce over meat and serve.

*Bouquet garni: use kitchen string to tie together a spring of Italian parsley, a bay leaf, and two sprigs of thyme. Or use a tsp. each of thyme and parsley and a bay leaf.

Bon Appetit!

 

The wonders of smoked salmon—and a quick, easy tart

 

Photo by Judy

I can’t believe I was grown before I tasted smoked salmon. It’s the kind of thing my mom would have loved, though my Anglophile dad might have declined to try it. Note that I am talking here of cold-smoked salmon (lox is one version); hot smoked salmon is an entirely different thing and tastes, to me, liked regular cooked salmon with an overlay of smoky flavor. I eat it, it’s okay, but I have a passionate love for cold smoked salmon. You can almost always find a pack of it in my fridge—a fishmonger once told me that the packaged smoked salmon is fresher than what he lays out on the counter as fresh-cut. So I buy packaged—there are several good brands, including Ruby Bay, St. John’s Smokehouse, Spence & CO. Ltd. and others.

You can do so many things with smoked salmon, though I think most people tend to think of it as lox and cream cheese on a bagel with tomato and onion slices (I prefer a sandwich on good Jewish rye—bagel is too much chewy bread for me). Try a twist of smoked salmon on top of a deviled egg; make a spread of it with cream cheese and onion (I have a recipe I’d gladly share) and serve with crackers, or stuff in a tiny puff pastry shell with a dab of caviar for (optional) elegance; serve it as the centerpiece of a salad plate, with lettuce, tomato, onion—and scatter capers across it. I like just a plate of smoked salmon with crackers. Or you can try lox and eggs—dice up some salmon into your scrambled eggs. It’s extra good if you also toss in some diced tomato and green onions—just be sure the onions get cooked.

My local family won’t eat smoked salmon—I know, growing up in my household, Jordan has tasted it and doesn’t care for it. I wouldn’t be surprised if Christian has not tried it, and I could almost guarantee Jacob hasn’t, though sometimes he surprises me. So, dishes with smoked salmon are things I fix for happy hour or light supper for friends. Mary V. particularly likes it, and I have more than once served her a flour tortilla spread with crème fraiche, topped with generous smoked salmon, and that dab of caviar in the middle for elegance. (You can get a small jar of caviar for ten dollars—it’s not Beluga, but it’s acceptable).  Recently though I ran across a recipe for a smoked salmon tart and served it to Mary. She loved it—and so did I.

Ingredients (for four servings)

½ small red onion, thinly sliced, previously pickled

1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed

1 cup crème fraiche or sour cream

6 oz. sliced smoked salmon

Persian cucumber slices, previously pickled

Capers as garnish

Fresh dill as garnish

Chopped tomato as garnish if you wish

Lemon for serving

Directions

Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and lay the puff pastry on top—no need to roll it out first. I usually use Pepperidge Farm puff pastry, but when Trader Joe’s had theirs on sale (winter holidays only) I bought some to keep in the freezer. It’s turns out really flaky. Poke it all over with a fork to eliminate air pockets. Your pastry should turn out crisp but not puffy-mine actually was puffy and I had to poke it again after baking.

Follow baking instructions for pastry sheet and then let cool to room temperature.

Spread sour cream or crème fraiche over pastry sheet. Top with generous smoked salmon. Arrange garnish vegetables in a decorative pattern if possible and scatter with either caviar or capers.

Serve with lemon.

How to pickle red onion: slice onion into a small bowl; toss with a pinch of salt. Sprinkle with white vinegar until covered and toss again. Let sit on kitchen counter for twenty or thirty minutes. Leftovers? Refrigerate and use another time

How to pickle cucumber: mix 1 cup water with 1/3 cup white cider vinegar, a pinch of sugar, ½ tsp. salt; slice two Persian or one English cucumber and stir into vinegar mixture. Add a sliced green onion if you wish. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to use immediately; otherwise refrigerate. Keeps well and is a hand accompaniment (or ingredient) of sandwiches, etc.

A  couple of quick notes that have been on my mind:

Why are so many recipes calling for jammy (perfectly set whites but with slightly cooked or jammy yolks) eggs? If I want a hard-boiled egg, I want the yolk cooked!

Speaking of eggs: if you don’t want to try salmon in your eggs, try cottage cheese. Seriously! It gives them a rich and hearty flavor. For two eggs (one person) stir in a heaping Tbsp. of cottage cheese. My mom did that and I loved it; thanks to Jordan’s friend Amy for reminding me the other day.

And a whine: if I saw one more pink-and green-kitchen, I may scream. No, I don’t think it’s a great makeover!

And on that note, happy eating.

 

 

 

Never order fish on Monday

Even the best cooks like to dine in a restaurant occasionally—it’s a break from cooking, a chance to experience new tastes (and maybe pick up some new ideas), and it’s fun to have someone else plate your food. But chefs caution there are several things to remember not to order or eat. Herewith just a few. Some have to do with weight control, others with hygiene and food safety.

For the sake of your waistline, do not order those “endless” or “all you can eat dishes. For instance, chips and salsa that is constantly replenished. As you sit and visit, waiting for your food, you almost unconsciously keep nibbling on what’s in front of you. Before you know it, you’ve consumed so many chips you’ve compromised your appetite for the meal. And those fried chips are not innocent—they have probably been fried in trans fats. The same is true for bread with olive oil dipping sauce, although in this case, it’s the oil and not the bread that you should suspect. Olive oil may be heart-healthy, but it has more calories than butter. And then there’s endless pasta—your bowl will be refilled as many times as you want. The thing is most restaurants serve huge portions of noodles to begin with, so if you ask for more, you’re eating two meals.

The same is true for entrée salads. Restaurants load them with lots of dressing (learn to ask for it on the side) and toppings that are high in calories—cheese, bacon, croutons, etc. So that salad you thought would be healthy, may end up with more calories than a Big Mac. Salads to watch are Cobb, taco, and crispy chicken—where the chicken is fried.

Speaking of a Big Mac, it’s best to avoid all fast food, no exceptions. That burger, fries and a shake can end up well over a thousand calories, too much of it from trans fat. Also to avoid trans fats, which can raise cholesterol levels and promote heart disease, avoid fried foods—that chicken-fried steak you love, fried chicken, French fries. It’s hard but you can do it.

Avoid creamy soups. Many have as much as 500 calories per bowl and filling enough to be a main dish. If you want soup before your meal, stick to clear broth. Watch out for soup of the day or house soup—it’s often a mishmash of leftovers.

Restaurant deserts have hidden dangers too. They are usually loaded with fruit, artificial sweeteners, and lots of plain old sugar.

Switching to hygienic hazards, you know those lemons and limes you like to add to your water or tea? Don’t do it. They are big germ carriers, either because your wait person doesn’t use tongs and gloves to transfer them from container to your glass or even because you yourself squeeze them, letting the juice run over your hands (when did you last wash your hands?)

Unless you’re going straight home to the refrigerator, don’t ask for a to-go box or doggie bag. Food left at room temperature for two hours is considered a hazard. For the same reason, avoid buffets—those dishes may be set out piping hot but over time they cool to room temperature and ou can’t be sure how often they are rewarmed. Also buffets present the situation of many hands dipping into a common bowl—a huge opportunity for transferring germs.

Some dishes that may carry food-borne illnesses—those sprouts in your sandwich, raw oysters, certain fish, ground meat such as medium-rare hamburgers. Avoid Hollandaise sauce—it is difficult to make, so chefs make it in large batches—what you get on your Eggs Benedict may have been sitting out for hours. Order bottled water instead of tap water, avoid ketchup in the bottle (chefs tend to combine half-full bottles at the end of the day), and bread baskets—if you think they don’t go from table to table you’re wrong.

All this is enough to scare you off restaurant trips forever, but it shouldn’t. Exercise caution and common sense. And never order fish on Monday—the markets are closed, so that fish has sat all weekend.

I like to leave with something positive, so here’s an easy good chicken recipes I’ve just discovered

Chicken Caesar salad

Ingredients

Chicken tenders

1 cup bottled Caesar dressing

1/3 cup fresh grated parmesan

Parsley (optional)

Romaine lettuce

Directions:

Pound chicken tenders if too thick. Mix Parmesan into dressing and combine. If using parsley, stir in 2 Tbsp. chopped. Coat both sides of each piece of chicken. Broil until chicken is cooked through—it should brown slightly. Spread lettuce into soup plate or dinner plate; top with chicken pieces. Add more dressing if necessary. Add croutons if you wish.

Serve to family raves!

 

The rotisserie chicken controversy

 

My photo of Grandma's chicken casserole

It tastes good. It’s quick and easy to use. It holds together in casseroles, which is a big plus to me. So what’s not love about rotisseries chicken? Start with the nitrates and nitrites and other preservatives that are in it. Then add the oils and butter that make it so tasteful but also add to the fat content. So what’s a cook to do? One trick is to be sure to skin the chicken and discard the skin. Beyond that, you’re thrown back to cooking the chicken at home yourself.

So maybe you have time to cook the chicken before you make that casserole. The obvious method is to boil it—I’ve seen too many recipes that begin with, “Boil an old hen.” Truth is boiling makes chicken tough. The new method is to poach it—a much gentler method of cooking. Some recipes say put the chicken in cold water and gradually increase the temperature to a simmer. Cook until internal temperature is 155^o.(This presumes you are using chicken breasts). The alternate poaching method calls for bringing the water just to a boil and then quickly putting a lid on the pot, remove it from the heat, and let sit at least 20 minutes. As in the other method, the internal temperature should be 155^o.

But, boiled or poached, chicken cooked in water is bland. To me, even the pale color is unappealing. You can season it yourself by adding carrots, onion, peppercorns, etc. to the poaching water. Or you can marinate the chicken first (some stores, like Central Market, sell pre-marinated chicken breasts but by using them you run into the problem of possible preservatives). You can grill or roast or pan fry the chicken. One method I like is to season the chicken breasts generously with salt and pepper, lay onion slices on them, and put in a covered pan with at least an inch of water. Then bake at 350^o for half an hour.

It's up to you: which is more important, flavorful chicken or healthy chicken? I go back and forth, use rotisserie chicken about half the time. And then the next question is what are you going to do with that cooked chicken? Here are a couple of casseroles I really like:

Grandma’s chicken casserole

3 cups cooked chicken, roughly chopped

2 cans cream of mushroom soup

2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese

3 cups crushed Ritz crackers (about two sleeves)

Arrange chicken in a greased 9 x13 pan; spoon soup over it and smooth out as evenly as possible; top with grated cheese and finish with Ritz crackers.

Bake at 350 for 35-40 minutes. Do not let crackers burn. Let cool and collect itself 10 minutes before serving.

Baked chicken salad casserole

2 c. chopped chicken (about 5 breast halves)

3 hard-boiled eggs, grated or sliced (your choice)

2 cans cream of mushroom soup

½ Tbsp. lemon juice

¾ c. mayonnaise

2 tsp. salt

2 c. chopped celery

½ tsp. pepper

4 tsp. onion, minced very fine

Crushed potato chips

Layer chicken and eggs in a greased 9 x 13 pan. Mix everything else together and pour soup mixture over. Top with crushed potato chips. Bake at 375° for about 30 minutes or until hot.

These are nice, light casseroles, good for summer evenings. Serve with a green vegetable or salad.

Enjoy!

 

 

The French version of a tuna sandwich

 

I’m working today on recipes for the upcoming Irene in Chicago Culinary Novel, Irene in a Ghost Kitchen. So my thoughts are on French food. Ghost kitchens have been around a long time, but they especially flourished during pandemic. A ghost kitchen is one that prepares take-out only and has no table service, no wait staff. Sometimes a kitchen will have delivery service within a certain radius. If not, patrons come to the kitchen to pick up their meals.

Henny would tell you that Irene’s ghost kitchen is simply something to keep her busy—and to cost Chance money, because there’s no way it will make a profit. But Irene would tell you she is educating the American palate about French cuisine. She stocks things that are easily stored and packaged—ingredients for French-style sandwiches, containers of vichyssoise and vinaigrette, individual servings of crème brulee, pots of pate. By special arrangement with her favorite café, La Petite Folie, she occasionally fixes an entrée, such as rabbit gibolette. There’s not much call in Hyde Park for rabbit and the dish freezes easily.

Pan bagnat (pronounce it pa bag na) is a favorite French sandwich that has been called Salade Nicoise in a sandwich. Here’s what you do:

Ingredients:

Bread of your choice—a 10-inch baguette makes two sandwiches, or use an 8-inch round; if using a larger round, cut in wedges to serve; you may also use ciabatta rolls

1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced

2 (5-ounce) cans good quality oil-packed tuna fish

1/4 cup olive oil

2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped

1/4 cup pitted Nicoise or Kalamata olives

1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 garlic clove, peeled

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 hardboiled eggs, sliced

2 tomatoes, sliced

12 large basil leaves

Note: if you soak onion slices in cold water for ten minutes, they will lose some of their bite.

Directions

Mix tuna, its oil, anchovies, olives and 2 teaspoons of red wine vinegar. Stir gently to keep from mashing the tuna chunks.

Slice the bread lengthwise and hollow out some of the insides. Rub a cut garlic clove over inside of top and bottom. Then brush lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Spread the tune mixture evenly over the bottom of whatever bread you are using. Layer red onion, eggs slices, tomatoes, and basil on top of tuna. Drizzle with more olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top the sandwiches with the tops of the baguettes and wrap each tightly in plastic wrap.

Place the wrapped sandwiches side-by-side on the counter and set a cutting board on top. Place a heavy pot or skillet on top and put a few canned goods inside to weigh it down even more. Leave sandwiches for ten minutes; then turn them over and press from the other side.

Cut into individual servings with a good bread knife. Serve at room temperature.

Jambon beurre

Jambon beurre is a classic, simple sandwich. It consists of a baguette, split and inside of the top and bottom spread generously with unsalted butter (because the ham will be salty) and filled with thinly sliced French ham of the highest quality. If you can find jambon de Parisien in your market, that is a good choice.

You might want to crisp the baguette in the oven first. If so, let it cool completely before spreading with butter.

Bon Appetit!