My Blog List
Thursday, November 25, 2021
A small but significant act of thanksgiving
Thursday, November 18, 2021
Puff Pastry and the fear of failure
Lunch today, with a hand pie reheated too long--it got too browned
artichoke hearts, cherry tomatoes, asparagus, and hearts of palm
and, yes, that's a mince tart from neighbor Mary.
Puff
pastry has intimidated me too long. I decided to stand up to it recently and sifted
through my appalling recipe file for one I’d wanted to cook for a long time:
chicken hand pies (every culture has some version of this pastry shell stuffed
with a meat filling, from empanadas to pierogies to pasties—this recipe was
from the New York Times). My first mistake: somehow I got it into my
head that the recipe was for chicken salad hand pies. Not until I got to
making the filling did I realize it was a cooked meat filling of chicken,
mushrooms, onion, broth, crème fraiche, and seasonings.
But it
wasn’t the filling that intimidated me. It was the puff pastry. (I’m also intimidated
by phyllo.) I had been making tuna pasties using biscuit dough, and as one
friend gently said, there was way too much bread and not enough of the tuna
filling. And I’d been rolling out the biscuits, so why not roll out puff
pastry?
It comes
in a twelve-inch square, and the recipe says to roll it out to a fifteen-inch
square on a lightly floured cutting board. Fifteen inches is pushing the limits
of my work surface and besides the dough began to tear, but I think I got to
about thirteen and a half. When the directions on the box say lightly floured,
take it literally. I had been afraid of lots of flour that flew everywhere and
was a hot mess to clean up. Not so, I floured the work surface and the rolling
pin very lightly, and the dough did not stick at all.
Next
up: use the tip of a knife to divide the dough into nine squares. After a
couple of stabs at it, that too proved easy. So I moved ahead, put filling in each
square (not the three-quarter cup recommended but more like half a cup), folding
the ends to make a triangle, and crimping the edges with my fingers. I had hand
pies! The last step was to brush with either melted butter or an egg wash of
one egg mixed with one Tbsp. water. I prefer the egg wash. Bake at 375 for 20-30
minutes or until golden brown.Chicken hand pies as they should look,
but not good photography. Sorry.
Here
are two fillings I’ve used with other pastry shells in the past and will now
make—soon!—using the puff pastry in my freezer.
Tuna pasties
1 7 oz. can albacore tuna, in
water
1 cup shredded cheddar
¼ cup celery, diced finely
1 Tbsp. fresh parsley, chopped
1/3 cup sour cream
This
may not make enough filling for all nine squares. Serve warm.
Coulibac
Coulibac is the Russian version of a stuffed pastry shell, traditionally
made with fresh salmon or sturgeon, rice or buckwheat, hard-boiled eggs,
mushrooms, onions, and dill. My version is a shortcut, using canned
salmon.
1 cup shredded carrots
½ cup finely chopped onion
½ cup finely chopped celery
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 cup thinly sliced mushrooms
1/3 cup sour cream
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
½ tsp. dried dill
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. pepper
1 16 oz. can salmon, drained,
bone and skin removed, meat flaked
Cook
carrots, onion and celery in oil until tender. Add mushrooms and sauté until
just limp. Remove pan from heat and add sour cream, lemon juice, salt, pepper,
and dill. Gently stir in salmon.
My
next challenge may be to make spanakopita with phyllo—or, hmmm, could I use
puff patry?
Thursday, November 11, 2021
Of cabbages and kings, frittatas and casseroles
Dinner at this house one night recently was a frittata fail. I’ve never made a frittata, but it’s just a crustless quiche, right? And it’s a popular dish now. I happened on to a recipe for a vegetable frittata and thought I’d use it as a guide. How hard could it be? Of course I had to adapt it—Christian and Jacob want meat with their meals (although not much red meat for Jacob) and the recipe had bell pepper, which doesn’t like me and I don’t like it. Jordan pointed out that we had a lb. of pork sausage in the freezer, and I have found that Christian will eat finely chopped spinach stirred into soup or something. Substitute cheddar for Parmesan and there was my frittata. Only I was way off on proportion of my substitutions. Instead of a half lb. of sausage, I used the whole lb., about 8 oz. spinach, and 6 oz. cheese. Stirred in 7 eggs—and it looked like a meat and spinach mixture. The eggs got lost. I dutifully baked and served it. Christian, with a skeptical look: “I’m used to more egg in a frittata.” It tasted okay—actually the flavor was good, but it was kind of like hash.
If
frittatas are in vogue, casseroles are not. Facebook every once in a while pictures
a casserole with the line, “Do people still eat this?” I often find myself defending
tuna casserole (see last week's blog post). Somehow that makes me even more interested in retro foods. I
associate casseroles with my childhood and then with the lean years when I was
the single parent of four teenagers, but those are good memories. (I used to
make gorilla casserole—the heading said you could feed ten gorillas at twelve
cents apiece or something like that.) I still make casseroles. Here’s one I
served to a guest recently:
Baked chicken salad casserole
3 c. chopped chicken
3 hard-boiled eggs
2 cans cream of mushroom soup
½ Tbsp. lemon juice
¼ c. mayonnaise
1 tsp. salt
2 c. chopped celery
½ tsp. black pepper
2 green onions, chopped fine
Layer chicken and eggs in greased casserole; mix remaining
ingredients and pour over eggs and chicken. Top with crushed potato chips. Bake
at 375o for about 30 minutes or until heated through. Enjoy!
Thursday, November 4, 2021
Re-imagining the tuna casserole—and a bit of fiction
As you
know if you read “Judy’s Stew” online, I’m taking a course on the culinary cozy
mystery. Today’s assignment was to take one dish and describe it in terms of
all five senses. It’s been along time since I shared my tuna casserole
recipe—don’t groan, please—so I decided to focus on it. I thought for fun in this
blog, I’d repeat that scene from Irene Keeps a Secret, the
as yet unwritten third entry in my Irene in Chicago Culinary Mysteries series.
The recipe is also attached. Henny is preparing to fix tuna
casserole for one segment of her TV show, “Recipes from My Mom’s Kitchen.”
As I unpacked
the groceries I’d brought and slipped the pre-made casserole in the oven, Bob,
the station manager, walked by. “Hey, Henny, watcha cooking today?”
“Tuna
casserole,” I replied, my back to him as I worked. I knew what was coming next
and mentally got ready for his objection. Bob’s idea of comfort food was
probably a Big Mac.
“Tuna
casserole!” He exploded. “Henny, we all had to eat enough of that as kids.
Nobody eats it anymore. I told you, now that we’re national, you gotta ramp up
your act.”
“I’m
doing retro recipes, remember? Last week I even did a jellied salad—well, okay
it was gazpacho—but it got raves. And national bought the show with the title,
‘Recipes from My Mom’s Kitchen.’ This is from my mom’s kitchen.”
He
shrugged and walked on, but not before he muttered something about not blaming
him if my ratings tanked.
I
turned back to my groceries—a can of tuna, a can of mushroom soup, a
pre-measured cup of wine, a small baggie with assorted herbs, some chopped
celery and green onions. The pre-cooked noodles bothered me some. I hoped they
wouldn’t clump when I tried to use them.
As I
worked, memory took me back to Texas. On chilly nights, Dad lit a fire in the fireplace,
and we ate dinner camped around it, sitting on the floor or a footstool or whatever
was handy. I could almost see the flames and feel their warmth, hear them
crackle, smell the piñon wood Dad insisted on. Tuna casserole was a family
favorite for those Sunday night suppers by the fire, and as I stood there in
that dingy TV studio I thought about Mom’s casserole—the crispness of the fried-onion
topping against the creaminess of the noodles and tuna, with an occasional pop
when you came to a green pea or the crunch of a bite of celery. I was suddenly
hungry, and as I picked up the tuna and soup cans to open, I only hoped my
casserole would taste as good as Mom’s. Patrick would be the taste tester
tonight at supper, but, alas, no cheering fire.
Tuna casserole re-imagined
1 c. white wine
Assorted dried herbs—thyme, parsley,
oregano, summer savory, tarragon, etc. (avoid Mexican spices like cumin); just
throw the spices into the wine
1 small onion, chopped
½ c. celery, diced
2 Tbsp. butter
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 7½-oz. can water-packed tuna,
drained
1 c. carb filler of choice, cooked noodles
or rice
½ c. green peas
1 small can French’s fried onion
rings
Boil wine with herbs until the herbs
turn black (about five minutes). Remove from heat. Meanwhile sauté onion and
celery in butter. Add this to wine, along with soup. Add tuna, drained, or 1
cup diced chicken or turkey, the carb filler, and green peas for color. If
there’s not enough liquid for your solid ingredients, add more wine. You can
also vary the amount of meat and noodles or rice to suit your taste. Put into
casserole dish and top with canned fried onion rings. A shallow dish means more
of the casserole gets fried onion topping. Bake at 350° until bubbly and onions
are brown.
Irene in Danger, second in the series, is now
available from Amazon in paperback of Kindle editions: Irene
in Danger: An Irene in Chicago Culinary Mystery - Kindle edition by Alter,
Judy. Mystery, Thriller & Suspense Kindle eBooks @ Amazon.com.