I'm tired of tossed salads

Tonight's supper

 

I’ve noticed lately that I tend to nibble at a tossed salad, though there was a time when my ex refused to let me eat salad until I’d eaten my entree because he knew I’d fill up on it (how times have changed—now we know filling up on salad is good for you as long as the dressing isn’t too fattening). In recent years, our favorite dressing has been a blue cheese one you make in the bowl and then add the lettuce…and I still like it.

But these days I’m more inclined to assemble a platter of vegetables, as I did tonight. Let your imagination go—peas, carrots, green beans (I prefer the tiny French haricot vert), asparagus, kidney or even pinto beans, cherry tomatoes, tiny new potatoes halved, cubes of cheddar, hard-boiled eggs quartered, artichoke hearts. I often get so carried away I run out of room on the platter. Sometimes I drizzle a vinaigrette over the entire things; other times I serve it on the side—depends on my mood. Occasionally I add a couple of meat selections and that’s dinner—small pieces of grilled salmon or chicken, lamb chops if I’m feeling extravagant, sliced flank steak.

Tonight’s platter accompanied a sandwich casserole—split Hawaiian rolls, layered with gruyere and a nice ham on the bottoms, cream cheese chive/onion spread on the inside of the tops. Brush the whole thing with a mixture of butter, Worcestershire, Parmesan and dried onion. Refrigerate and then bake. It was delicious, and it’s a Kraft recipe. I’m sure you can find it on their web site.

My appetizer was a wonderful goat cheese/wasabi spread a friend brought the other night—I promise to get that recipe and share it soon.  Catastrophe was that the dog ate the biggest piece of the cheese roll. Hoping she doesn’t get sick in the night. Besides I’m disappointed that I didn’t get to serve it. Moral of the story: don’t take appetizers out to the garden table and turn your back.

I don’t often fix dessert but tonight I served a Key Lime Pie (yes, I bought it frozen—I’ve only made it from scratch once and remember it as a lot of work). But the whole meal was terrific. It was in honor of my neighbor’s birthday, and his present was a bottle of olive oil infused with Tuscan spices. I got it at the Virgin Olive Oiler, the store I wrote about last week on this blog. Jay said, “Now I guess I have to cook you supper.” Right on!

Blue cheese dressing

Here’s the dressing that’s been our standard (though we always make sure everyone likes blue cheese). Daughter Jordan and her husband Christian love this dressing and she usually makes it at my house. She tends to make enough for three salads, and sometimes it’s so stout it makes you pucker. But here goes:

Rub the inside of an unvarnished wooden salad bowl with a cut clove of garlic and then with salt (Kosher preferred) and dry mustard. Crumble blue cheese into the bowl, pour in cider vinegar to taste and mash the cheese until you have a paste. Then whisk in olive oil. Measurements? You’re on your own. Just remember the old rule of thumb—one part acid to two parts oil—and then cheat just a bit. Good with nothing but lettuce.

  

 

Olive oil and more--who knew?

I went to the most fascinating store today. It's called The Virgin Olive Oiler and, as you might suspect, it specializes in olives oils but it also has a wide selection of balsamic vinegars, sugars and salts. I was overwhelmed. The owner--and this is not a chain but a privately owned store--is knowledgeable and friendly. I didn't really browse but told him the gifts I wanted and who for and came away with an olive oil infused with herbs de Provence, another with Tuscan herbs, an 18-year-old dark balsamic traditional vinegar, and a butter infused olive oil.
I told him that the friend who lives in my garage apartment is dairy-free and although we don't often eat together occasionally I sauté vegetables in butter and then regret that I can't share. He carefully gave me a card explaining that no items in his store come from animal products--he has a large vegan trade--and the butter olive oil, while it tastes like butter, is dairy free. And aside from sautéing, you can use it almost any place you'd use real butter--over baked potatoes, in baking, over everything from popcorn to pasta, to dip bread in, and a bunch of other things. Use your imagination.
The oils fascinated me--truffle infused, mushroom, roasted almond, sesame, French walnut, chipotle, cilantro and roasted onion, green chili. Apparently a California garlic oil is his best-seller.
I'm not as big a fan of balsamic vinegars, but I suspect if I hung around there I would be. The bestseller is the 18-year-old one I bought but the dark also come in black currant, blueberry, cinnamon-pecan, and even chocolate. White balsamics have fruity flavors from pineapple and mango to coconut and peach. One of the premium vinegars is a pinot noir one.
An entire wall of salts intrigued me because I'd just bought chocolate sea salt in Hawaii--can  you imagine that on a grilled steak? Like a subtle mole sauce. The store didn't have that but did have a dark red Hawaiian sea salt. Almost all of the salts were from the sea--black truffle, chipotle, wild porcini, vanilla bean and others. And there was a bread-dipping seasoning--my kids brought some of that back from France nine years ago and we loved it.
The pure cane sugars also come in a variety of flavors. I liked the idea of espresso, lime, and lemon. Not so sure I want to try habanero.
The Virgin Olive Oiler offers shipping anywhere in the continental United States, and their website has recipes. Check it out at http://www.shop.thevirginoliveoiler.com/Sugars_c5.htm. I haven't had such a fascinating shopping trip in a long time, and now I'm ready to experiment in cooking.
 

Recipes from the Blue Plate Cafe

One of the joys of writing the Blue Plate Mystery Series, for me, is a chance to talk about food and include some recipes. So there's a recipe section at the back of Murder at the Blue Plate Café. Naturally I attributed them all to the fictional Gram, who owned the café for years until her sudden death. In truth one of those below is my own version of chicken salad, but I attribute it to Kate because she added it in an attempt to lighten the café menu. The sheet cake came from my late dear friend, Reva Ogilvie. Reva and I used to argue whether it was a sheet cake or a sheath cake. I insisted it's a sheet cake because you make it in a sheet pan; she persisted in calling it a sheath cake. Either way, we'll continue the fiction and call most Gram's recipes. These would be the great basis for a lunch menu, maybe with the addition of fruit and bread.

Kate’s Chicken Salad

Kate is a purist about chicken salad. She doesn’t believe in adding pickle relish, grapes (too much like bistro food!), or nuts. This makes great sandwiches.

4 whole chicken breasts, poached and diced

Juice of 2 large lemons
8 scallions, diced
2 ribs celery, diced
Salt and pepper
Mayonnaise to bind (do not use that low-fat stuff) or equal parts of mayonnaise and sour cream

Optional: stir in some blue cheese. So good!

Flake chicken in food processor or dice, according to your preference—Kate flakes it; add diced scallions, lemon juice, salt and pepper, and mix. Add mayonnaise a bit at a time, blending thoroughly. It should hold the chicken together but not make the mixture soupy. The pure chicken flavor should dominate. Serves about 12. Can easily be reduced for home use; just start with one whole chicken breast or even a half.

 

Gram’s Sheet Cake

 

Follow the directions carefully because this goes together like no cake I've ever made.

2 sticks butter or margarine

4 Tbsp. cocoa

1 c. water.

 Bring these ingredients to a boil and add:

 2 c. sugar

2 c. flour

Mix and add:

2 eggs

1 tsp. vanilla

½ c. buttermilk

1 tsp. baking soda

 Mix and bake in a greased rimmed cookie sheet at 400° for 20 minutes.

Separately combine in saucepan:

 1 stick butter

4 Tbsp. cocoa

6 Tbsp. milk

Bring to a boil and add:

1 lb. powdered sugar

1 c. chopped nuts

1 tsp. vanilla

Spread over hot cake.

 

 

 

Airplane food

Having just returned from first-class flights to and from Hawaii, I found this guest piece by Claire Jenkins is of great interest. Our food was not nearly what I expected from first class, nor was the wine. The pictures are from our trip.

The Airline Food Lottery - Are You Getting Your Money's Worth?

Food used to be considered one of the perks of airline travel. It was a novelty, a nice little freebie to make you feel better about the cost of the flight and break up the tedium of a long-haul journey. With air travel now more commonplace the novelty has well and truly worn off, and passenger expectations have increased in line with flight costs. What used to be reasonably reliable quality standards, however, seem to have taken a nose-dive in some quarters. In-flight food has become something of a quality lottery, with customer experiences ranging from the sublime to the inedible. Passengers can take heart though, as signs from the industry suggest that moves are afoot to address customer concerns.

Travelers are becoming more discerning and (with the help of the internet) more vociferous, and it would seem that the airlines are starting to respond to the backlash. Travel companies, keen to preserve their reputation for promoting quality service providers, are increasingly using the internet to demand feedback on passenger experiences of onboard catering. There are also the annual World Airline Awards which seek to establish a global benchmark for excellence in all things flight related. If you value good quality in-flight food and you have some choice of airlines when you are booking your flight it may be worth checking out these polls and awards to give you an idea of the type and quality of food you can expect. This is no guarantee of a pleasant experience of course but you can perhaps narrow your odds a little!

A pasta dish

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Air_Canada_AirbusA340_Kitchen.jpg

The airlines are taking this feedback on board, and appear to be busy addressing the onboard catering issue via the introduction of various initiatives targeting different passenger markets. European holiday airline Monarch offer set breakfast lunch and dinner menus, bookable in advance, for an additional cost. The emphasis is on quality, the range being called "Divine." The opportunity to Buy-on-Board, or order ahead of time is becoming more and more popular. As a part of that airlines are increasingly offering locally sourced products for sale, a response to growing global concerns over carbon footprints and the demise of the small, independent producers.  

Names of celebrity-chef big-guns are also appearing more frequently in the airline publicity blurbs bringing the X-Factor to the skies, with the likes of Michelin-starred chef Michel Roth creating menus for Air France, and James Beard Award-winning chef Michelle Bernstein working with Delta Airlines. For the lower-budget pocket, Japan Airlines is setting the scene by providing passengers with in-flight food and drink sourced from, and prepared in conjunction with, well-known coffee brands and fast food chains.

Overdone steak and faux potatoes

Estonian Airlines has been rolling out their "Restaurant in the Sky" idea over the last 12 months, showcasing a different chef from a prominent national restaurant each month to prepare meals in-flight for Premium passengers. Similarly, Abu Dhabi-based airline Etihad Airways offers its Diamond First Class passengers meals made to order on from scratch on the flight itself.

As an airline traveler you are a captive audience, and in the dry atmosphere of recycled air it is usual to both want and need a drink. Increased security measures on some flights may prevent you from taking your own beverages on board, so check this out before you travel, and ensure you are in a position to buy a drink should you need one. They are generally not provided free of charge.

Freshly tapped beer has been available on All Nippon Airways since 2010, not something that seems to have taken off at a global level, but nevertheless another move in the direction of responding to passenger demand.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Air_Canada_business_meal.jpg

The quality of wines offered onboard flights can vary greatly too, and some of the larger trans-continental airlines, such as Delta and Cathay Pacific, have sought to address this, and now have trained sommeliers on board who help with both the selection and serving of the wines on offer, but usually only in First Class. This sweetener isn't designed to make money in its own right (the drinks are often complimentary) but rather to keep passengers coming back for more, thus securing the more lucrative ticket sales.

Catering isn't the only in-flight offering that you may want to consider before you book. The range of other products available free or to buy onboard seems to be ever-expanding too. Airlines clearly see these products as beneficial to their businesses, as for Premium and First Class passengers they will often offer complimentary products. Perfumes, watches and cosmetics are all favorites with airlines, as are travel accessories and skincare products.  It is important to remember that the bargains on board may not be all they seem, and a little forethought before you travel can save you a lot of money. There are some unbeatable deals on travel accessories and beauty products available online that not only protect your pocket, but allow you to choose from a far superior range of products to find one that best suits your needs. Onboard, you are limited in your selection to the very small range of products carefully selected to provide the illusion of choice. Do not be fooled by the limited choice trap - always ask yourself if this is REALLY the product you would choose or is it simply the best of the selection on offer? You may well find some products at a lower price than on the high street, but a quick scan online of in-flight magazines has just revealed no fewer than three different cosmetic products alone on offer on various trans-continental flights that are DOUBLE the price you can find them online. In-flight products are by no means always cheaper!

A really good salad

The initiatives underway are a start - as with any service-based industry it seems it will be those who can afford to pay the premium for top class catering and service who will benefit most, but  the other initiatives mentioned do indicate a good move in the right direction for all passengers.

These new initiatives should in theory address quality issues through greater control, visibility and transparency in the supply chain. If this is supplemented with improved benchmarks for standards of excellence for cabin crew and training programs to support that, then it is to be hoped that the overall airline food experience will continue to improve.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Clou_TXL_aircraft_05.jpg

Pre-dinner snacks and not very good wine

 

What this all boils down to is the airlines squeezing margins where they think they can get away with it. For the passenger, choice is often limited - the airlines know this, but are still keen to keep the majority of customers happy if they can. As far as catering is concerned, if the quality of your food experience on flights is important to you, then it's wise to check out your alternative operators, how each fares in the unforgiving world of online ratings and comments, and also where they rank for catering quality within the airline industry itself. Then hopefully your in-flight intake will be sure to satisfy! 

 

The dilemma of Easter dinner

With Easter fast approaching, I'm beginning to plan my family's Easter meals. And that got me started looking into the traditions behind Easter foods.
We'll start the day with a sunrise service, at 6:45, in the courtyard gardens of our church. A soloist backed by a quartet will sing,, "One Early Easter Morning," an anthem that I sang as a choir member when I was ten or twelve. It's a song that's been rattling around in my head for almost sixty years, and I was so delighted when an old schoolmate from those days found the music that I sent it to the music director at our church. Then it will be home for breakfast and an egg hunt. For breakfast, we'll have scrambled eggs, sausages, fruit and hot cross buns.
Hot cross buns, I discovered, date back to Anglo Saxon days when people made wheat cakes to honor the goddess of springtime. With Christianity, those cakes became sweet ones, blessed by the church. Bread is the symbol of fertility and also of the body of Christ, and the cakes are sweet because we are breaking the Lenten ban on sweets (not that many of us keep it these days). The traditional icing crosses were symbols also used before Christianity but easily made the transition. Other cultures  serve similar sweet breads--the Polish have baba, and the Czechs babobka, while Syrians and Jordanians serve honey-based pastries.
For dinner, traditional meats in this country are lamb or ham. Lamb's significance is obvious--Jewish people slaughtered at lamb at Passover and used the blood to mark the doors of believers in hopes that the Angel of Death would pass by. The traditional lamb served at seder also translated easily into Christian ritual, since Jesus is often referred to as the lamb of God.
Serving ham has a much more mundane origin: early settlers in this country slaughtered meat in the fall. Fresh pork was eaten during the winter but what couldn't be eaten was cured for springtime use. Curing took a long time, and the first hams were usually ready about Easter. Once again cultures differ--some Slavic cultures serve coiled sausages and cold meats for Easter.
Two of my children and their families will be here for Easter, and one of them emphatically does not like lamb, never did. Since he was such a good eater as a child, I figure he's entitled to a few dislikes, so I'll serve ham. Ham of course requires some form of potatoes but instead of scalloped, I'll serve a lemon potato salad--I'm pretty sure I've posted the recipe before--accompanied by roast green beans and a fruit salad.
For appetizers we'll have pickled radishes--because my son-in-law loves radishes--and deviled eggs. Eggs are of course THE big Easter tradition, symbols of rebirth and renewal. Often in past times eggs were forbidden during Lent, so that's another reason to serve them. But the traditiona of coloring eggs probably goes back to Ancient Egypt or Greek and Roman Times. It's generally agreed that early German settlers brought the traditions of Easter eggs and bunnies to this country in the 1700s, though who knows where the bunny came from.

Deviled eggs
There are a thousand ways to serve deviled eggs--garnished with everything from caviar and smoked salmon to sprigs of dill, quartered cherry tomatoes, or tiny bits of gherkins. I don't do pastry bags or baggies with the corner cut of, so my eggs don't come out beautifully sculpted but they taste good. And my recipe is so basic I hesitate to repeat it.
Recently there's been a thread going around the internet about baking instead of boiling. Put eggs on their sides in a mini-muffin tin and bake at 350 for 30 minutes, then plunge into an ice water bath. I tried it on three eggs and don't recommend it. The shells cracked the minute they hit the ice water bath, which theoretically could allow bacteria in, and also made for some odd-shaped eggs. And the shelled eggs had brown spots on the exterior of the whites. I did devil them, and they tasted fine. I recommend putting them in cold water, bring to a boil, turn off the heat, and walk away for a couple of hours. Then refrigerate. I was astonished recently to watch one of my sons painfully peeling an egg standing at the kitchen counter. I asked if he didn't know to peel it under cold running water, and he didn't. Now he thinks he's discovered something new and wonderful.
I basically mash the yolks, add garlic salt, pepper, onion powder. Then I dribble salad mustard over the yolks, being careful not to overdo because I want more of a mayo taste. Sometimes I add a bit of dill or sweet pickle relish (your choice). Then just enough mayo to bind but don't let them get sloppy runny. Chill well before serving. But, shoot, everyone knows how to devil eggs.

Pickled radishes

Clean and quarter 10 regular radishes. Put in a glass jar with 10 garlic clovers  peeled, a tsp. whole black peppercorns, a tsp. each sugar and kosher salt, and 2 cups white vinegar. Shake until sugar and salt dissolve. Refrigerate at least 3 days, but you can keep them a month if you keep them in the refrigerator.

A blessed Easter to one and all.

A supper for St. Paddy's Day

My youngest daughter’s birthday is today—shh! I’m not saying how old. She’s getting sensitive about it. I always thought corned beef and cabbage would be appropriate for her birthday, but from her youngest days she had another idea: tacos! Make them yourself tacos! I got so tired of chopping tomatoes and onions and lettuce for twenty of her nearest and dearest (they varied over the years). This year she’s requested cheese enchiladas (she’s making them), beans (from a local restaurant), fruit salad (I’ve cut up a whole pineapple, cantaloupe, mango, 2 lbs. strawberries, washed pint of blueberries—I always get the chopping!).

Her menu leaves me with no Irish food to celebrate the day, so last night I fixed an Irish supper for a friend. I wasn’t quite up for the heaviness of corned beef and cabbage so I made a Reuben casserole—with some trepidation, I must admit, but it was really good. Then I worried about salad—coleslaw didn’t sound right for a dish with kraut in it, neither did a green salad. Besides, I realized you have to have potatoes with an Irish meal. My friend told me that once in Ireland her husband ordered assorted vegetables—they turned out to be mashed potatoes, hash browns, and one other potato dish! So I made what the Web assured me is an Irish potato salad (above). I’m a little late with these recipes for St. Patrick’s Day this year, but save them for next. Also I forgot to take a picture of the casserole until after we’d eaten, so please pardon the picture of a half eaten casserole. It works in a way because I thought I was making just enough for two—I ended up with about half the casserole left.

 Reuben Casserole

 About 6 oz. corned beef, diced (I had the deli counter thick slice it and then I diced)

1 cup sauerkraut, drained and then squeezed dry
Four green onions, mostly white part, chopped
½ c. grated Swiss cheese
½ c. grated cheddar cheese (I used sharp)
¼ cup Thousand Island dressing (I always make my own—equal parts ketchup and mayo, in this case about 3 Tbsp. each with 1/2 teaspoon pickle relish and a dash of Worcestershire)
3 Tbsp. mayo

Mix all together and put in a casserole dish. The more shallow the dish, the more room for crumb topping.

For topping:

2 slices rye bread—crumbed in food processor

2 Tbsp. butter, melted
 
Mix and spread over casserole. Bake at 350^o for 40-45 minutes. Topping should be crunchy and browned.

Irish potato salad

2 baking potatoes, peeled, sliced and boiled until tender, then cooled (do not overcook so that they fall apart)

4 green onions
4 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled
Equal parts mayo and sour cream (I used ¼ c. each), mixed

Spread a layer of potatoes in serving dish, cover with mayo/sour cream sauce, sprinkle with bacon and green onions. Repeat layer. Refrigerate until chilled (3-4 hours)

 Serve with green beer—or a nice wine. No green wine, please.

 Slainte!

Dining on the High Seas

When we think about a cruise, most of us envision lavish buffets, with ice sculptures and scrumptious food. But that image is out of date. Cruise lines are changing their approach to food service. If you’re thinking about a cruise soon, you’ll want to read this advice from guest blogger Claire Jenkins first about food questions to ask before you book

There is no argument that food is an integral part of the cruise holiday experience, but reports on the quality of food served aboard the ships vary immensely. For some, the fine dining experience while enjoying the ever-changing view from the restaurant window is something that can’t be topped. Others report on the mayhem experienced in cramped buffet style restaurants offering food that most fast food outlets would be ashamed of. For many of us quality food is a key aspect of a holiday, and something to look forward to, so reports of poor food are troublesome. What is the reality, and what can you expect when dining aboard?



The truth is that the cruise industry is going through a period of dramatic change when it comes to dining. The days of the formal traditional dining rooms are coming to an end. Most cruise lines are diversifying and offering a wide range of dining options, as well as choices in eating times, which is a far cry from the formality of the original dining rooms with their set meal times.

 “Anytime dining” is a new buzz word in the cruising world. Diners can book a particular meal time at a specific table or can opt to go for the flexible option where they can turn up at anytime during serving hours. Princess and Holland America were two of the first lines to offer this. Other lines, such as Norwegian Cruise Line, have gone for the 24-hour restaurant option, offering comfort food throughout the night. The once-per-cruise midnight buffet option is being replaced with a once-per-cruise brunch . Disney Cruises offer champagne brunch on sea days in their adults-only restaurant, Palo.

Changes are also taking place in the types of eateries available as well. Cruise ships traditionally offered one dining room, meaning guests had no choice in where they ate. These days guests can choose from a number of smaller onboard specialty restaurants. These generally have a cover charge of about $18, which, compared to the cost of eating ashore, is a good value. These specialty restaurants offer a range of culinary themes and a more intimate and personal dining experience away from the crowds of the main dining room. These food cruise specialty restaurants offer more allowances for individual tastes and preferences. For example, you can request steak cooked the way you like it, ask for a certain element of a dish to be excluded, or added. They also give guests the option to avoid the sometimes forced entertainment often found in the main dining rooms.

Check what food is included in your fare before you book your cruise, and ask about the cover charges for the specialty restaurants. Make sure there is some variety in dining options offered on the boat as in some cases you will be on board for a few weeks and you could quickly tire of limited options.

For connoisseurs

Fans of the celebrity chef craze may be pleasantly surprised by the dining options on board. A host of famous chefs have endorsed food and restaurants on cruise ships. Jacques Pepin is Oceania’s Executive Culinary Director, Marco Pierre White has restaurants on P&O’s Ventura and Oriana, Boston-born Todd English has a restaurant on the Queen Victoria, and Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ Matsuhisa has a sushi bar on Crystal Serenity. The chefs not only create the menus but also have a hand in designing the restaurants and regularly dine aboard to check on the quality of the food being served.

Some cruise companies are making the extra effort, and often the extra cost, to ensure that the food served aboard is locally sourced. Hebridean Island Cruises support the small business communities that they sail around by sourcing the food from local suppliers. This ensures that the food is fresh and seasonal for the guests. The fish is all sourced from Scottish waters, the meat is from a local butcher based in Argyll, and even the cheeses are Scottish. For those wanting to really experience the true food of the area they are visiting this is an ideal solution. Other liners offer specific food and wine-based shore tours. Oceania has joined with Food and Wine Trails to offer guests the chance to taste local life as well as local food and wines. Azamara Club Cruises offer tours to the source of local foods, such as Slovenian salt plant tours, visits to olive farms and wine cellars.

If you want to brush up on your culinary skills while on holiday then choose one of the ever increasing numbers of cruise lines offering cooking lessons on board. Holland America is leading the way in this revolution with their Culinary Arts Center. In a specialized demo kitchen they offer small groups the chance to watch demonstrations and have hands-on lessons. Regent Seven Seas Cruises have Le Cordon Blue chefs on hand to teach guests their tricks of the trade through their lectures and demos.

For some people the choice of wine is just as, or even more, important than the food choice. The majority of cruise companies have recognized this and now have wine bars. Norwegian Cruise Lines, Royal Caribbean and Princess all have impressive wine bars. Celebrity Cruises even put on a special wine lovers cruise once a year as part of a repositioning trip between Vancouver and San Diego, with vineyard visits and seminars by wine experts.

Dining on board with magnificent views from the windows in undeniably a special experience, but Windstar Cruises have taken it one step further and offer the guests an al fresco dining option when the weather allows. Guests can choose to dine under the stars in the fresh air on all three of their ships.

 A lasting impression

The reputation of the food served on cruise ships has taken a bit of a battering over the past few decades, but it is clear to see that the cruise industry is revolutionizing itself. By doing some careful research before booking you may find that the food served on board is one of the most memorable parts of the holiday, and for all the right reasons.