Years ago, when my children were little and I was married to
their father, a Jewish man, we always had latkes at Hanukah. They were good if
you got one straight out of the frying pan; but warmed in the oven, they were
greasy and not crisp. For some reason unknown to me, we served egg salad and
tuna salad with them, and a friend I’d gone to graduate school with always
brought his family, including his father-in-law who kept a roll of one-dollar
bills in his pocket and peeled them off for the speechless children. The men always cooked the latkes--a distinct departure from traditions. But those were
good times.
When I saw a picture Janie Emaus’ family’s latkes on
Facebook and saw how crisp they are, I knew I had to ask her how they do it.
Here’s her description of the process, some specific hints for making latkes,
and the love that goes into this tradition. And note--the women do the cooking.
For those of who you don’t know, Hanukah is known as the
celebration of lights. Upon the rededication
of the Temple
in Jerusalem ,
the Jewish people found enough oil to burn for only one day. Miraculously, the oil burned for eight days. Thus,
along with lighting the Menorah for eight nights, we eat foods fried in oil.
Janie's mom and daughter
Making latkes is serious business
I find it a miracle that four generations of women in my
family were together in one kitchen. As
the matriarch of the family, my eighty-seven-year old mom set the tone. It was no-nonsense with her. Get started.
Keep focused. Get it done. As her
daughter, I obliged and began peeling potatoes.
When my daughter arrived, the tone shifted slightly. To say that she is a clone of my mother would
be an understatement. She definitely
inherited the “control” gene. It appeared that my frying skills weren’t up to par, and
thus my granddaughter and I were relegated to lining the trays with paper
towels, emptying the trash and washing
the bowls.
But it worked.
And five hours later – hours filled with peeling, chopping and frying, along with discussions about life, marriage, sex, men, and more sex (with women in the kitchen, what do you expect?) we had over ten dozen delicious latkes.
It doesn’t get any better than that. Unless, of course,
there is a cleaning crew to come in to wash the stove, counter tops and
floor. Because there will be grease
everywhere. But nothing that can’t be tackled after a well shaken
martini.
Here is our family recipe along with some essential tips:
4 potatoes
1 onion2 eggs
Salt and pepper – to taste
Flour – for thickening the mixture
Vegetable oil
This will yield approximately 25 latkes
Tip #1 – Prepare and fry one batch at a time. It is easier to fry them this way and the
mixture won’t sit in the bowl for too long. Cut the potatoes and onions into even pieces. Place potatoes into ice water until ready to
use them. Place into food processor and
chop.
Tip #2 – Do not grind too finely. Pour mixture into a bowl.
Add eggs, salt and pepper.
Thicken with flour. Heat about ¼ inch oil in frying pan.
Tip #3- A cast iron pan works best. Spoon mixture into oil.
Fry until golden brown. Flip
over. When done, place on cookie sheet
lined with paper towels.
Tip #4 – It takes about 2-3 batches to get it exactly right
and get the “latke” feel. Add flour to mixture as needed while frying.
Tip #5 – Have fun!
Serve with applesauce or sour cream.
Happy Hanukah to all who celebrate.
Janie Emaus is blogger and a novelist. Her current release is a
young adult novel, MERCURY IN RETRO LOVE.
She blogs for the Huffington Post at http://www.huffingtonpost.com/janie-emaus/ Since 2009, she has been regular columnist
at www.inthepowderroom.com,
Her blog for baby boomers, www.theboomerrants.com takes a humorous look at life NOW as compared to THEN.
She is currently at work on a new novel and can be found at www.janieemaus.com
Judy,
ReplyDeleteThanks for letting me share our recipe with the world.
I can't remember for sure, but I think my mother thickened with matzoh meal rather than flour. And if this doesn't sound weird, I ate mine dusted with sugar. I've never made them because of the time it took to grate the potatoes, but now I want them. Your post brings back memories.
ReplyDeleteMy grandmother would grate them by hand. But now with the food processor, it makes it so much quicker and easier.
DeleteMemories for me too, Polly, and a definite longing for latkes though I must say I can't imagine them with sugar. One of my sons says his girls make them often, not just seasonal--I'm inviting myself over.
ReplyDeleteToo yummy!!
ReplyDeleteI had European friends who couldn't imagine how Americans ate pancakes with syrup with bacon or ham. The salt and sweet together seemed disgusting to them. Try one bite with sugar. Just one bite. :-)
ReplyDeleteYep! I had British houseguests who were appalled that I served "sweet with sour"--toast and jam with bacon and eggs or brown sugar with oatmeal.
ReplyDeleteJanie, I'd be afraid the processor would turn the potatoes to mush. We always grated by hand. Do you have a slicing/grating attachment?
ReplyDeleteYes. And you don't want to make them too fine.
DeleteThanks for sharing your memories and your recipe. I favor matzo meal rather than flour, too--I think it makes the latkes lighter--and I always grate by hand. I also think it's important to rinse the grated potatoes and then squeeze out as much water as possible, to get rid of excess starch.
ReplyDeleteThere is a lot of water, so we keep adding flour.
DeleteI just can't imagine grating by hand.
Yummy! I love them...and I do remember my Grandma Minnie making them! But how do you keep the house from smelling so onion-y?
ReplyDeleteIt's not so much the oniony smell, as keeping the smoke alarm from going off! Which it did!
DeleteThanks for stopping by.
Funny, Hank. I remember the house smelling more of grease than onion!Maybe Janie has the answer. Or maybe it's do what she does and cook several days ahead.
ReplyDeleteThey sound yummy. I haven't had them in years, but I loved them when friends fixed them. The sour cream and applesauce were perfect complements. I'll have to try making them myself. Thanks, Judy and Janie.
ReplyDeleteEllis - Invite some friends over and make a party of it. That makes it so much more fun.
DeleteYou're welcome, Ellis. Hoe yours come out as yummy as Janie's look.
ReplyDelete