Please welcome my guest,KB
Inglee, with a really fascinating contribution to my potluck posts. KB writes
short historical mystery fiction and is currently at work on a collection of
stories set between 1870 and 1890. She works at two living history museums
where she learns what she needs for her writing. The staff historians and an
archaeologist are founts of information. She tends a flock of heritage sheep
and works a water-powered gristmill that was built in 1704. Her joy is showing
off the sheep, the mill and the miller's house to school kids. For more
pictures check out: Newlin Grist Mill at www.newlingristmill.org
and Greenbank Mill and Philips Farm at www.greenbankmill.org. Leave her a message.
First off let me tell you that I am not a cook. I can’t light and maintain a fire, nor can I get the lumps out of cake batter.
Never
let it be said that this failure ever held me back from doing anything
historical. For years I taught kids how to make Jumbles (snickerdoodles) in a
Dutch oven and soap over an open fire. I believe that I can’t write historical
fiction successfully unless I have done what my characters do and live as they
have lived. I actually believe that no one can. I often find errors in
historical fiction that wouldn’t be there if the authors had spent a little
time in the century they are writing about.
I
was delighted when the mill where I worked added a wood-fired oven. I cherished
the opportunity to help fire it up (see above about lighting fires), to clean
it out for baking and especially to eat anything baked in it. If you are going
to bake at nine in the morning you have to start firing it at five. I am an
early riser so this was no problem for me.
All
of us who used the oven got together to experiment. We brought our favorite
recipes (or to be historically accurate, receipts) from home, along with all
the equipment we needed. We mixed up whatever we chose to make and cooked it in
the oven. I chose a spice cake that my protagonist Emily makes for special
occasions (c 1890). I brought a leg of lamb as well. When everything was done
we feasted. The food was spectacular. Maybe it was because we had labored long
and hard in the cold, because we all had burns and splinters, or because we
were in good company. While all of those are true, it may have been simply that
food cooked in a wood-fired oven tastes better.
Making
cornmeal mush is great fun. You mix cornmeal, salt and water, then sit by the
fire and stir it constantly for two to four hours until it is done. I learned
something unexpected from doing it. I was wearing jeans and the fire heated the
cloth that was right next to my skin to unbearable. I had to keep shifting
sides to avoid real burns. When I cook at the mill, I wear a petticoat which
doesn’t touch my skin and so I am protected from the heat. Who knew?
I
once trekked with Lewis and Clark. I was the head cook for this weekend
adventure. The kids learned surveying and mapping, how to keep a journal, do
cyphers, and how to keep a camp. The biggest eye-opener for us all was that
they had to barter for food. There was nothing in the camp kitchen, so if they
didn’t get it we didn’t eat. The trader was kind enough to remind them that
food tastes better with salt. He explained the other reasons we use salt in
cooking. I’m sure they wouldn’t have thought to get salt, especially since it
cost one knife. I'm also sure they would have complained about the taste.
I
spend a lot of time trying to convince people that food doesn’t start out
wrapped in plastic. When I tell kids that the cute fluffy white animals in the
pasture are both meat and wool sheep, they are appalled. Most of them have
never eaten lamb or mutton; most of them don’t believe food lives in
pastures and is cute. On the same Lewis and Clark adventure we had to butcher chickens. Every one of the kids was excited and volunteered to help. When it actually came down to doing harm to the birds, or worse yet putting your hand inside to get the guts out, they were nowhere to be found. They did show up at the dinner table.
Reciepts
This is my own version of Lobscouse. I believe the copy I got from another museum interpreter was based on the receipt from Lobscouse and Spotted Dog: Which It's a Gastronomic Companion to the Aubrey/Maturin Novels, by Anne Chotzinoff Grossman.
Lobscouse
A unt Caddie's Cake
pastures and is cute. On the same Lewis and Clark adventure we had to butcher chickens. Every one of the kids was excited and volunteered to help. When it actually came down to doing harm to the birds, or worse yet putting your hand inside to get the guts out, they were nowhere to be found. They did show up at the dinner table.
Me?
Cook? Never! I do experimental culinary archeology.
This is my own version of Lobscouse. I believe the copy I got from another museum interpreter was based on the receipt from Lobscouse and Spotted Dog: Which It's a Gastronomic Companion to the Aubrey/Maturin Novels, by Anne Chotzinoff Grossman.
I like the spice mixture so much
that I make it up in quantity and keep a jar around. This stew is much better
the second day.
2 lbs. beef cut in 2 inch cubes
2 lbs. smoked ham
2 lbs. smoked ham
1 bay leaf
6 lg. potatoes
6 lg. potatoes
3 ½ cups ship's biscuit (around 8
oz.)
½ tsp. ground cardamom
½ tsp. ground cardamom
1 tsp. ground allspice
1 tsp. mace
1 tsp. mace
salt
4 lg. onions
4 lg. onions
4 leeks
1 tsp. ground nutmeg
1 tsp. ground nutmeg
½ tsp. ground cloves
dash cayenne
dash cayenne
freshly ground pepper
I leave out the ground cardamom. The
original calls for ship's biscuit. You can actually buy or you can get or make
yourself. I use stale bread crumbs or saltines.
[Editor’s note: ship biscuits are
hard, non-perishable biscuits good for long sea voyages; also known as hardtack.)
Place the meat in a pot with bay
leaf and cold water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook, covered, over
medium-low heat until tender (2 ½ to 3 hours). Remove the meat from the pot and
discard the bay leaf. Skim and reserve the slush (fat). Reserve 3 cups of the
cooking liquid.
(If you are using smoked ham instead
of corned pork, the texture will be improved by pre-cooking it with the beef
for an hour.)
Trim the meat and cut it into ¼ inch
dice. Peel the onions and potatoes and cut them into ¼ inch dice. Put the
potatoes in cold water to cover.
Remove the root tips and the tough
green ends of the leeks. Cut the remaining portion in quarters, lengthwise, and
wash thoroughly under running water, separating the layers to remove any grit. Cut
into ¼ inch slices.
Place the Ships’ Biscuit in a
plastic bag and pound it into coarse crumbs.
Heat 6 Tbsp. of slush in a large
frying pan over high heat. Add the meat and cook, stirring occasionally, until
it begins to brown (10 – 15 minutes). Remove the meat from the pan and set
aside, draining as much fat as possible back into the pan.
Sauté the onions over medium heat in
the same pan (adding a little more slush--I use bacon fat if needed) until they
start to soften. Add the leeks and cook until the onions start to brown. Drain
the potatoes, add to the onion mixture, and cook, stirring often, about 5
minutes. Add the browned meat. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until the
potatoes are almost tender (5 - 10 minutes).
Stir in the pounded biscuit and 1 ½
cups of the reserved cooking liquid. Add the spices, and salt and pepper to
taste. Mix well. Cover and cook another five minutes.
From Boston Cooking School Cookbook by Fannie Farmer, 1896, as updated
in 1962. Miss Farmer is considered the mother of the level measure.
Sift together
2
cups flour
1
tsp cinnamon
1
tsp powdered cloves
½
tsp allspice
½
tsp salt
1
tsp baking soda
2
tsp baking powder
Beat two eggs until thick and lemon
colored
Beat into the eggs
1
cup sugar
2
tablespoons molasses
Beat alternately into the egg
mixture the flour mixture and 1
cup sour milk or buttermilk
Stir in lightly 2/3 cup melted
shortening or oil
Bake in a moderate wood-fired oven
'til done, or in a modern oven set at 375 degrees for 25 minutes. Chocolate
frosting makes it perfect.
[Editor’s note: No sour milk on
hand? Stir on tsp. vinegar into a cup of milk.]
Cranberry Corn Bread
I
have a friend who sends me a pound or so of cranberries from a local bog every
year and I send him two pounds of corn meal ground at the 1704 water-owered
gristmill where I work. This is a pleasant combination of both gifts.
About
one cup of cranberries, cleaned and sorted
About
half a cup of molasses
About
half cup of water
Any
standard cornbread recipe
Boil
the cranberries in the molasses adding enough water to keep it from
caramelizing. Cook until the berries have popped, and it has thickened. Stir
the sweetened cranberries into the cornbread mixture once it is in the pan and
bake as directed.
If
you find errors in these recipes, remember I already told you I am not a cook.
I love this post, KB! And the term "experimental culinary archeology" - perfect. Now to get my own hands on a copy of Fanny Farmer, and to find a place in Massachusetts that reenacts 1888 living, besides the Lowell Mill museums.
ReplyDeleteI grew up with a wood stove in the kitchen (In the living room too, to heat the house). When I was a senior in high school it was my job to make bread every week for the family. I started with cooking a potato and using the mashed potato plus water it was cooked in. Three loaves of bread, or two loaves plus biscuits.
ReplyDeleteI think I made bread about twice after that - once was for a pregnant friend who wasn't handling food well at the time. She said it helped.
Of course, when we baked bread or cakes, the oven temperature was of more concern than stove top cooking. And various parts of the stove top were different temperatures according to how far they were from the actual fire. (This was in the 1940s.)
I have spent the last three days teaching colonial cloth manufacturing to 300 fifth graders and haven't; had much time to check for comments. Notice I wasn't teaching the cooking unit.
ReplyDeleteI think I got my original Fanny Farmer from Dover reprints. There are comments in ink in the margins so it was taken from someone's kitchen.
Edith, if you would like to spend a weekend at The Norlins in Livermore Maine, let me know and I will go with you. They do weekend for education students in UMaine. I had the best time there.
Norma, my grandmother had a wood fired iron stove in her kitchen and an icebox (also in the 1940s). Maybe that is why I got so interested in history.
KB