One dish two ways and a quick hint

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Stuffed mushrooms are a classy appetizer in my mind. Maybe it’s because they take a bit of work—it shows that you didn’t just buy a packaged mix at the grocery for your guests. Maybe it’s because they look pretty. And maybe it’s nostalgia on my part because that’s what my mom fixed on special occasions. Perhaps, though, the best stuffed mushrooms I ever had were served at a small diving resort on Grand Cayman. My son was managing the place and hired a Jamaican cook who made these mushrooms up out of her imagination. Since she was also given to chasing people with a butcher knife, I never did ask for her recipe. Recently though my friend and fellow author Susan Wittig Albert posted her recipe on her Substack column, and I think it’s almost as good as Mom’s.

There used to be lots of theories about cleaning mushrooms. Mom swished them around in salted water to remove loose dirt and then rinsed them. Someone who’d been to culinary school told me that is all wrong because mushrooms already have a lot of liquid and if you submerge them, they just absorb more. Lately I’ve heard that it’s fine to rinse them under running water. I prefer to take a damp paper towel and gently clean them.

Susan also had a cooking hint. One problem with stuffed mushrooms is often that the filling cooks before the mushrooms soften. Since the filling usually has cheese in it, it runs all over while the mushrooms are still raw or almost so. Susan’s advice: stem the mushrooms (save the stems to chop into the stuffing) and turn the caps stem side down in a baking dish. Bake at 350^o for 10-15 minutes. Pour off any liquid that accumulates.

Mom’s filling (with no exact measurements—sorry!):

8 oz. whole mushrooms—I like Baby Bella, but button are fine, stems removed

Grated sharp cheddar cheese, probably about a cup

One or two green onions, finely minced

About a half teaspoon dry mustard

Several shakes of Worcestershire

Mayonnaise to bind, but don’t let it get soupy

Bake at 350^o until cheese melts and is just browned on top. Serve immediately, wth plenty of napkins.

You can also serve Mom’s recipe unbaked as a spread or spread it on toast points and bake until brown and bubbly.

Susan’s recipe (she attributes it to Jane Clark)

For 2 dozen large mushrooms:

½ cup dried breadcrumbs, plus more for topping

½ cup pecorino or parmesan cheese

1/3 cup finely chopped onion (I’d probably use green onions)

Finely chopped mushroom stems

2 Tbsp. fresh parsley, chopped

1 Tbsp, fresh sage, chopped

2 Tbsp. olive oil

Salt and pepper

Mix ingredients thoroughly and spoon into caps. Bake at 350^o until mushrooms are tender, filling is heated through and topping is golden. About 15-20 minutes.

Susan’s quick tip: Use a packaged, seasoned stuffing mix instead of bread crumbs and herbs. Mix with cheese, onons, and chopped stems. (Probably add the olive oil to bind it all together).