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Showing posts with label #retro dishes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #retro dishes. Show all posts

Thursday, August 26, 2021

Company-perfect pork

 


I’m having fun revisiting some dishes that I used to make when I was feeding four teenagers. Is thirty years old enough to make a recipe retro? Not too long ago I did a tuna casserole for a friend who had fond memories of that dish from his childhood. Now he wants chicken divan, and I’m looking forward to fixing that. But both dishes have ingredients that are not on the Burton-approved list—tuna for all, and broccoli for Christian.

On the other hand, the other night I fixed pork medallions in a creamy tarragon sauce—everyone cleaned their plates and, far as I could tell, liked it. But what was most fun was that as I was cooking, Jordan said, “That smells familiar.” I think it was the tarragon, which is not an herb we use often.

I can’t even tell how old this recipe is. The original was so fragile that I photocopied it—and lost the source and date. But not the headline that bills it as quick! and company perfect! The recipe calls for one and a quarter lbs. of pork tenderloin—and right there we have a problem. For this family of four, with a teenage boy who grows daily before our eyes, one is not enough. And two is too much. The other night, I cooked two, and we had six pieces left over—great for lunch the next day.

Here’s what I did:

Pork medallions with tarragon sauce

1-1/4 lbs. pork tenderloin

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

2 Tbsp. butter

Salt

½ c. beef broth

½ tsp. dried tarragon

½ c. half-and-half

Pepper

           First, slice the tenderloin into medallions. I didn’t do this, but I think if you could start with them slightly frozen, they would be easier to slice. The silver “skin” on tenderloins is particularly difficult and may require scissors. Cut the tenderloin into 1-1/2 inch pieces and flatten slightly.

Coat one side of each piece lightly with the mustard (best to put that Tbsp. of mustard into a small dish so that you are not dipping a knife, fresh from raw meat, back into the jar and contaminating all the mustard).

Melt 2 Tbsp. butter in skillet and add medallions, mustard-side down. Sprinkle meat with salt. Reduce heat to medium and cook five minutes. Using tongs, turn each piece and cook another five minutes. Remove meat from skillet and keep warm.

Add beef broth and tarragon to drippings in the pan. Scrape to loosen all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook until broth is reduced by about half. Add half-and-half. Recipe says simmer until slightly thickened, but it never will thicken much. Next time I think I’ll dissolve ½ tsp. corn starch in a tiny bit of cold water and add to the sauce, stirring over low heat until it thickens. The flavor as we had It was great, but I prefer a more gravy-like sauce with the meat. Return meat to skillet, add pepper to taste, and heat gently. Do NOT let it boil or your sauce will curdle.

We served this with noodles and salad, but it would also be good with Christian’s green beans.

Christian’s green beans

4 slices bacon – reserve grease

2 cans cut green beans, or equal amount of fresh, washed and trimmed of ends and strings

Cider vinegar to taste

Fry the bacon until crisp. Drain on paper towel. Leave the grease in the skillet. Dump in the drained green beans and heat. Splash with cider vinegar—about a Tbsp. Taste and add more if needed. Crumble bacon over beans, stir and serve.

Confession: I forgot to take a picture—and the medallions looked so good in the skillet. The picture above is for the algorithms and approximates what our dinner looked like but without the sauce.

Thursday, March 18, 2021

Those retro dishes from your childhood



Jordan and Christian’s friend, Gary, has been waiting all pandemic to come from Dallas for the tuna casserole I’ve promised to make him—a delicacy my resident family won’t touch. We’ve quipped and commented about it on Facebook for a year now, but the date is approaching. Everybody’s vaccinated, and we feel safe to gather. A couple of days ago I mentioned I’d made chicken Divan for son Jamie, and Gary said we’d have to add that to the rotation. At which point, Christian jumped in, said the recipe sounded good to him if we could substitute something for the broccoli; he suggested potatoes, which misses the whole point of the dish. So then I got carried away and said I also have a great recipe for tuna Florentine. Gary is threatening to move west for food. (Do you get those terms mixed up—Divan, Florentine? If it’s Florentine, it’s over spinach; if it’s Divan, it’s over broccoli.)

All this is by way of saying I think I’m finding my cooking niche—at my advanced age. I’ve been advocating American food for some time, although I’m quick to appreciate the food customs of many other countries. Still, these days I find Thai and Indian dishes often too spicy for me and African and Middle Eastern recipes so trendy they’re about to crowd out some old favorites from my childhood—like tuna casserole and chicken Divan. It’s easy to argue that there is no such thing as American food, because our dishes, like our population, are a melting pot. I’ve thought of that this week cooking for Jamie—we had the chicken, then a St. Patrick’s Day corned-beef meal, and, tonight, eggplant Parmigiana. Yes, they are imports, but they are also dinners I remember form the 1960s and before.

One problem cooking older recipes is that packaging has changed. I have recipes that call for a roll of garlic cheese—you can’t buy that in the store anymore. Now I’m wondering if you can buy frozen broccoli spears. I couldn’t find them online at Central Market and settled for fresh flowerets, which worked well. When Patricia McDonald did an updated Helen Corbitt (she of Neiman Marcus fame) cookbook, she worked hard adapting recipes from the Fifties and Sixties to today’s quantities and available ingredients.

On Facebook occasionally you see memes asking, “Does anyone still eat this?” I’ve seen that question about meatloaf and salmon patties; chicken Divan, however, is something I haven’t heard a peep about in years. But one bite, and I remembered how good it is, with a rich wine sauce. So here’s what I did.

Chicken Divan

2 10 oz. pkg. frozen broccoli spears (or use fresh)

½ c. butter

6 Tbsp. flour

½ tsp. salt

Dash of pepper

2 c. chicken broth

½ c. heavy cream

1 Tbsp. white wine

1.5 lb. chicken breast, cooked and diced

½ c. Parmesan or Pecorino

           Cook chicken, cool, and chop; in skillet, melt butter and blend in flour, salt, and pepper. Add chicken broth slowly and cook until mixture thickens and bubbles. Stir in cream and wine. Place broccoli flowerets in 12 x 7 x 2 oven dish. Pour half sauce over. Top with chicken and pour remaining sauce over all. Top with Parmesan.

Bake 350 for 20-30 minutes, until sauce bubbles and Parmesan is lightly browned.