Hoppin' Uncle John
image by Freepik
By this time, most of us have that big Christmas dinner
planned (except maybe my daughter who says she missed the planning-ahead gene).
But we will roast two smaller turkeys for seventeen people, and serve with
mashed potatoes, gravy, green bean casserole (made according to Campbell Soup’s
classic recipe), dressing (not stuffing), and, we hope, fresh dinner rolls
following my mom’s classic recipe. Nobody ever eats dessert, but we may have
one or two pies. The non-planning daughter usually makes one of her lattice
apple pies.
But now, since I do have the planning gene, it’s time to
think about New Year’s. Having spent the first twenty years of my life in Chicago
and then a couple of years in northeast Missouri, I’d never heard of black-eyed
peas, let alone the tradition about them bringing good luck until I came to Texas.
In fact, I came from a household where the only beans we had were northern
sweet beans, so I was suspicious of these things—they might be called peas, but
they looked like beans to me.
For several years, I just avoided the whole subject, but I’m
a sucker for traditions, and eventually I was drawn in. I heard of something
called Hoppin’ John. My kids were used to stews and soups, and I thought they
might like Hoppin John, with it’s rice, better than a straight serving of peas.
So I investigated recipes, adapted one to our taste, and fixed it. The kids
called it Hoppin’ Uncle John, in honor of my brother (I don’t know that he was particularly
honored!). Here’s what I did:
Ingredients:
4 Tbsp. butter
1 large onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 lb. black-eyed peas (there’s no
shame using canned peas—just use two 15oz. cans, and you don’t need to drain
off the liquor—it’s full of taste and vitamins; you also probably don’t need to
cook the peas as long)
5 cups chicken broth
1 whole ham hock (you can also use
bacon or salt pork, but I like ham best)
1 14 oz. canned tomatoes, optonal
Salt and pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste (optional,
and I don’t do it)
2 Tbsp. white vinegar
Rice
Directions
If using dried beans, soak in cold
water at least six hours, drain and rinse. Pick out any bad or shriveled peas.
Melt bitter over medium heat, and sauté onion and celery until
tender. Add garlic and cook for a couple minutes, stirrng to be sure garlic
doesn’t burn. Add peas, broth, and ham hock. Season with salt and pepper and
cayenne, if using. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 30-45 minutes.
Remove the ham hock and let cook until you can handle it. (I
used to think we needed a whole, bone-in ham, but they are expensive and not
popular with my family.) Trim skin and fat off hock and get as much meat as you
can. If necessary, chop into small pieces.
While ham hock is cooling, check the pot for liquid. If there’s
too much, cook on low wth the lid off until it thickens up; if it’s too thick,
add more broth, a bit at a time. You don’t want soup, but you do want enough
pot likker to pour over the peas.
Return ham to pot and heat through. Add the vinegar. Serve
over rice. If you like, you can mix the rice in, but if you expect to have
leftovers, I’d keep it separate. Rice, like pasta, tends to soak up liquid.
Garnish with chopped parsley if you’re feeling fancy.
I haven’t made Hoppin’ John in years. I served whole hams and
a separate pot of peas, but I think this is the year I’ll try Hoppin’ John
again. Serve it with leafy greens (spinach for me, no kale or turnip greens)
which represents paper money and cornbread which symbolizes gold. I’ve heard
you will earn a penny for every pea you eat on New Year’s Day (hard way to get
rich), while others say you should eat 365 peas that first day but leave three
on the plate for good luck. You do you—I guess it all depends on how superstitious
you are.
Here's to a joyous 2024 with plenty of money, food, and
comfort for all!
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