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Thursday, December 1, 2022

Time for some bean soup

 

 


Black bean soup

Growing up in Chicago, I knew only what Texans call “northern beans” and I was taught were Boston baked beans—we’d open a can and season it with brown sugar or molasses. Ketchup, mustard, onion. Pretty much, it was a kitchen sink dish. When I moved to Texas (well over fifty years ago), I discovered pintos. I was leery, especially of refritos, which I first ate at Joe T. Garcia’s where I was overwhelmed by dishes I’d never heard of and, at first, ate tentatively. But I learned to love TexMex and to cook pinto beans. And I gave up cooking “northern” beans. I still love them, but Bush’s Original tastes just like home to me.

In recent years, I’ve really broadened my bean menu. I learned, for instance, that I could never cook black beans soft enough. I buy the canned. And lately I’ve learned a new trick: you don’t always have to drain and rinse beans. It depends on what you’re doing with them. Before, I was a bit disdainful of that thick, syrupy liquid, but it turns out it’s packed with flavor and vitamins. I learned this making the easiest black bean soup ever. I may never do it another way. I adapted this from America’s Test Kitchen.

Black bean soup

2 cans black beans

2 cups chicken broth

1 4 oz. can green chilis

¼ cup milk (as needed—I don’t like bean soup too thin)

¼ cup plain Greek yogurt

Lime wedges and cilantro to serve

Three things are key to this soup: Do not drain the beans; process about half the beans until they are thick and smooth; be generous with the lime juice.

Simmer beans, broth, and chilis until the mixture begins to thicken. Put about half the mixture in food processor, run until smooth, and return to the pan. Simmer until heated through to serving temperature. If the consistency is too thick, thin with a bit of milk but do it gradually.

To serve: pour soup into bowls or soup plates and top with a generous dollop o f yogurt and a sprig of cilantro. Serve with lime wedges.

Want a white bean soup? Here’s one I adapted from Cook’s Kitchen. The big difference here is the use of pickled celery for garnish. My dinner guest kept saying, “I’ve never had pickled celery.” It was different and good.

To pickle celery:

½ cup rice vinegar

1 scant Tbsp. sugar

½ tsp. salt

1 celery rib, minced

           Heat first four ingredients until simmering. Add celery off heat and let it sit for fifteen or twenty minutes while you make the soup. Drain and set aside.

The soup:

2 Tbsp. olive oil

½ cup chopped onion

1 celery rib, minced

½ tsp. dried thyme

2 garlic cloves, minced

A pinch of cayenne (optional but it adds a good spark)

2 cans white beans, undrained

2 Tbsp. fresh grated Parmesan or Pecorino

2 cups chicken broth

2 Tbsp. butter

Lemon wedges

Sauté onion and celery in olive oil until soft. Add thyme, cayenne, and garlic and cook for a minute. Then add undrained beans and simmer until heated through.

At this point, use an immersion blender if you have it and want a smooth soup. If  you want some chunky beans in  your soup, remove half the beans to the processor. Add Parmesan, 1 cup broth, and butter. Process until smooth and return to the bean mixture. Stir in remaining broth a bit at a time until you get the thickness you want. Heat to desired serving temperature.

Serve in soup plates. Garnish with the celery. Serve with lemon wedges.

So guess what we’re having for dinner tonight? Rice bowls with chicken, black beans, and chopped fresh vegetables. Yep, we’ll drain those beans.

 

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