All thing salmon

I goofed. Yesterday was supposed to be my cooking blog day, and I wrote a regular, every-day Judy’s Stew post. Mostly because I keep getting the days of the week mixed up and am chronically a day ahead of myself. So yesterday was Friday to me, and I have no idea what I did with Thursday. So please pretend today is Thursday, and let’s eat some smoked salmon. In case you haven’t noticed, I love all things salmon. Today smoked salmon is on my mind—and my taste buds. In case you haven’t noticed, I love all things salmon. Today smoked salmon is on my mind—and my taste buds.

Hot smoked

A word about smoked salmon: because I love lox, I ordered smoked salmon on my first trip to Oregon. What I got was totally different than what I expected. It was hot smoked salmon, which means it had been brined and then cooked in a smoker, probably over wood coals. It has the texture of broiled salmon but a distinctive flavor according to the brine used to prepare it.

Cold smoked salmon, however, is really raw fish. It is smoked by brining it. The texture is quite different from hot smoked salmon. I prefer cold smoked, and that’s what I used in the following recipes.

Not too many years ago, cold smoked salmon (or lox, which is salt cured) was a treat to be gotten only at the deli. Now it comes in four-ounce packages in many groceries. A butcher behind the deli counter at Central Market once told me that the packaged smoked salmon was fresher than the so-called fresh in his display counter.

Cold smoked

Last week I had a delightful visit from an old friend. We decided to eat lunch in the cottage because it would mean more visiting time. Besides, she always liked my cooking. So I prowled around and tried to decide what to serve her—something simple and easy but distinctive. No tuna or chicken salad stuffed in an avocado. I made a salmon-and-potato-salad platter, and it got raves.

Smoked salmon and potato salad platter

1 lb. new potatoes, cooked and peeled (this might be one of those rare cases where canned sliced white potatoes work best).

Salt and pepper

Juice and zest of one lemon

A splash of white wine vinegar

Olive oil

Capers, rinsed and drained

2 tsp. horseradish

¾ cup creme fraiche (substitute sour cream if you must or make your own crème fraiche: see note in Condiments section)

2 Tbsp. red onion or two scallions, chopped fine

¾ lb. smoked salmon, separated into bite size pieces

1ripe avocado, sliced

Boil potatoes until just cooked; peel and dress while still warm (if using canned, perhaps heat in microwave or toaster oven just a bit—warm potatoes absorb dressing better).

Mix all of lemon zest and half the juice, vinegar, and olive oil (remember the 3:1 proportion of oil to acid) and whisk to mix. Pour over warm potatoes.

Separately mix horseradish into crème fraiche.  Stir in remaining lemon juice. Salt and pepper to taste.

Lay out salmon pieces on plater. Spoon any dressing left over. Artfully add potatoes, mounding them in the center of the platter. Randomly arrange avocado slices.Drizzle crème fraiche dressing over all and sprinkle with chopped dill and whatever form of onion you choose. Nice served with baguette slices and a glass of white wine.

Another easy but showy dish is smoked salmon pizza. Years ago there was a restaurant that served individual pizzas, using tortillas as the crust. The topping was spinach, with tomatoes, onions, and, I think, cheese. Delicious and an idea to remember. But when I was trying to copy a picture of a smoked salmon pizza from a magazine, I remembered the tortilla trick. Great way to serve two.

Smoked salmon pizza

Two flour tortillas, lightly toasted

3 Tbsp. crěme fraiche or sour cream

3 Tbsp. chopped chives or the green parts of 2 scallions

4 oz. sliced smoked salmon

2 heaping Tbsp. black caviar

Mix the 2 Tbsp. chives and crěme fraiche and spread generously over tortillas. Top with salmon and spoon one Tbsp. caviar into the middle of each salmon tortilla. I used black caviar for color contrast, but you could use golden. I’d advise against red. A tiny jar of caviar really isn’t that expensive. Garnish with remaining chives and serve immediately.

I’m not through with salmon yet. Coming another week: salmon burgers vs. salmon croquettes.