Smashed potatoes
I’m also a fan of the almost
daily email column from Sam Sifton, food editor at the New York Times. So
I was delighted to find that Sifton has a new cookbook, out this week: See You
on Sunday. Sifton believes, as I do, that people want a sense of belonging,
and where better to find it than at the table. When people show up, he advises,
feed them.
His book is a guide to
preparing meals for a group larger than the average American family of four. (I
used to feed about 15 on a Sunday night when my kids were in high school.) Pushing
it on the TODAY show, Sifton fried chicken. The recipes seem chosen for the
average cook, a refreshing change from a man whose recipes often call for
dukkah, za’atar, harissa and houlamie. Certainly the table of contents is reassuringly
familiar, with chapters on pasta and pizza, big meats, big pots, birds, and
salads.
In the chapter on seafood,
for instance, there are directions for roast fish, grilled fish, fish chowder,
fish cakes, and so on. Your basics. A chapter on rice and beans offers
discussions of white, brown, and wild rice, followed by a recipe for pilaf and
then goes for the gold with paella. And red beans and rice, of course.
One of my weaknesses is
that I copy or print recipes that sound wonderful but are so complicated that I
know I’ll never fix them, cooking as I do on a hot plate and or in toaster
oven. One such I recently found was for cabbage rolls stuffed not with beef and
rice but with a chicken mixture and in a velvety cream sauce instead of the
traditional red. I’m quite sure Sifton’s book doesn’t offer me those
temptations.
But here’s what I did
last Sunday night:
Salmon filet
1 lb. salmon
Olive oil
Minced parsley
Chopped garlic
Grated Parmesan
Slather the filet with oil. Top with parsley, garlic, and cheese. Wrap in non-stick foil and bake at 400o for 15 minutes. My family thought it underdone, and we put it back for another five minutes, but I like my salmon closer to underdone than overdone. With this I served smashed potatoes. The fish was delicious and the potatoes good but not as crisp as I’d like.
Smashed potatoes
12 small potatoes (new red potatoes work but I used Yukon gold, about the size of a golf ball)
1 Tbsp. olive oil
Salt and pepper
3 Tbsp. butter, melted
I have seen far
more complicated directions, with herbs and a complex sauce, but I went for simplicity
and am glad I did. Boil potatoes until you can put a fork through them, but
they are still firm, not mushy. Grease a glass baking dish with the olive oil.
Put the potatoes in the dish and use a potato masher to smash each one
individually. Paint the potatoes with olive oil, using a pastry brush. Salt and
pepper to taste and pour butter over them. Bake 40 minutes at 350o.
I think too much
butter prevented them from crisping up. My daughter put leftovers in a toaster
oven, and they got crisp. You might try a higher temperature or a quick broil
at the end of cooking time.
And here’s what I
did with a tiny bit of leftover salmon: added one chopped green onion, about
four slices cucumber, peeled and diced, juice of half a lemon, and enough
mayonnaise to bind. Don’t make soup by adding too much mayo.
Happy Sunday
dinner. Now I have to figure out what we’ll have this coming Sunday. Wish I
already had Sifton’s book.
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