Upgrading some childhood staples

 

When I was young two staples of my diet were both canned foods—tuna and spinach. IF my mom was going out for supper, she’d leave a friend and me with a can of Chef Boy-Ar-Dee spaghetti (I have since given that up) and a can of spinach—we were happy. Mom loved to tell the story of the time she had the two of us in a hotel lunchroom in Grand Rapids, Michigan. We each chose a small bowl of spinach as we went through the buffet line. After a while, Mom said to Eleanor Lee, “You’re not eating your spinach.” Eleanor Lee wrinkled her nose and said softly, “I think it’s fresh.”

Today I know a lot of people, particularly men, scorn canned tuna though they’ll eagerly order grilled ahi. Neither of my sons-in-law will touch canned tuna, although my oldest son likes the kind I order from a cannery so much it’s sometimes his birthday or Christmas gift. I can count the number of friends who are appalled at canned spinach. Truth is, I’m not fond of ahi, though I used to like a good ahi sandwich, and fresh spinach, as my neighbor says, makes your teeth feel funny. But those two staples, with their fond memories, go together to create one of my favorite “fancy” dishes—Tuna Florentine.

Basically, it is tuna in a cheesy sauce on a bed of seasoned spinach, topped with bread crumbs and cheese. This is not a quick and easy dish to make, so I save it for company. Recently, with one guest expected, I halved the recipe and still had bountiful leftovers for several days.

Tuna Florentine

2 Tbsp. butter, divided use

1 small onion, minced

2 10-oz. pkgs. frozen chopped spinach

2 tsp. salt, divided use

½ tsp. ground nutmeg

2 7-oz. cans tuna, packed in oil (I use water pack and add extra olive oil)

3 Tbsp. flour

Pinch of mace (if you don’t have it, don’t worry)

½ tsp. white pepper

Spinach cooking liquid plus enough milk to make 1½ cups

1 c. grated Swiss cheese

2 Tbsp. Parmesan

2 Tbsp. white wine

            Topping

1½ c. soft breadcrumbs

1 Tbsp. grated Parmesan

2 Tbsp. melted butter

Melt 1 Tbsp. butter; add onion and sauté until brown. Separately, cook the two packages of frozen spinach in less water than the directions call for, breaking the frozen spinach up with a wooden spoon. When tender, drain thoroughly, reserving the liquid (spinach should be very dry). Add butter and onion to spinach. Season with 1 tsp. salt and nutmeg. Simmer briefly to blend flavors.

Add milk to spinach liquid to make 1½ cups.

Drain tuna, reserving 2 Tbsp. oil; flake.

Put 2 Tbsp. tuna oil and remaining Tbsp. butter in saucepan and melt butter. Blend in flour, mace, remaining salt, and pepper. Add spinach liquid/milk mixture and stir over heat until thick and smooth. Remove from heat and add cheeses and wine. Heat until smooth again, and fold in tuna.

Layer spinach in bottom of shallow casserole. Top with tuna mixture. Mix topping ingredients together and spread over tuna layer. Bake, uncovered, at 350° until bubbly and lightly browned (35-40 minutes).

Leftovers will keep three or four days; should freeze well.